BASIC CANDLE MAKING METAL CANDLE MOLD |
Begin by wicking your metal candle mold. Turn the mold upside down and thread the wick through the wick hole. Feed enough wick through so you can grab the wick from the other side and pull it through the mold. Leave about two inches coming out of the bottom of the mold. |
There are many ways to seal a mold. Some folks use mold sealing putty, others use a wick screw, some use magnets. We use a combination of the mold sealing putty and a mold magnet and will focus on this method of sealing metal candle molds. Take a small ball of mold sealing putty and press it over the wick hole where the wick passes through the mold. Leave the "tail" of the wick protruding as pictured. Press the putty down firmly until it is as flat as possible. |
Once the mold sealing putty is flattened out, wrap the "tail" of the wick around the top of the flat putty and press the wick into the putty. These steps both seal the mold and ensure that the wick stays secure during the remainder of the prep and pouring process. |
Next, place your mold sealing magnet over the wick hole and putty. Work all the way around the magnet to ensure that it is firmly pressed into place and adhering to the metal mold. The magnet serves as a "secondary" seal and ensures that no wax leaks during the pouring process. |
Once your putty and magnet are firmly in place, turn the mold over and pull the wick until it is taught. If you feel the wick slipping - or if the wick pulls out of the wick hole - repeat the prior steps. |
Secure your taught wick using a wick bar. Simply slide the wick bar onto the wick as pictured. The wick holding groove in the center of the bar should face up. Pull the wick into the wick groove and the wick will remain in place throughout the pouring and cooling process. Be careful to not pull the wick into the groove too hard as the metal wick bar can actually cut through the wick. You are now ready to pour! |
Melt your wax using the double boiler maker method. You can use a true double boiler or use or double boiler maker to create a double boiler from any large stock pot. Always use a candle making thermometer to ensure that your wax does not overheat. Overheated wax can spontaneously burst into flame and cause a devastating fire!!! Metal candle molds can withstand high pouring temperatures, but always be mindful of the melt point of your wax. |
Once your wax is melted, add your scent and color (if desired) and stir thoroughly. You may need to place the wax back into the double boiler melter to ensure that it does not cool too much during the melting and stirring of your scent and color. For this project, we used our pillar soy wax, maize diamond dye chips (DDC29) and orange blossom liquid scent. |
With your mold in a covered work area (we use a plastic backed canvas drop cloth) that will not be hurt by spilled wax, fill your mold. If needed, use a candle making funnel to assist in the pouring process. This item will not be needed with most of our metal molds. |
Fill your mold to the top with melted wax, ensuring that no wax spills over the mold. |
Once the wax in your mold is fully set (usually 8 - 10 hours), check to see if a depression has formed in the center of the mold. If a depression has formed, you will need to pour additional wax into the mold and allow the candle to cool. Repeat this process until no depression forms. |
Once the candle is fully set, invert the mold and the candle will slide easily out of the mold. |
If desired, thread a wick tab onto the wick protruding from the bottom for the finished candle. The "nipple" end of the tab should face the candle. Slide the tab all the way onto the wick and press the tab into the bottom of the candle. |
Once the wick tab is firmly in place, clip the excess wick from the bottom of the tab. |
Trim the wick on top of the candle to the desired length and you have a beautiful finished candle! |
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